INTRODUCTION: CHINATOWN HERITAGE TRAIL 2014

Hello, we are a team of historians who spent two lovely afternoons exploring the historic district, Chinatown. It was a meaningful journey as we unearth the many streets and forgotten stories of Chinatown.

To conclude our heritage trail in a simple sentence, we would say, every street has it's story. Some street may be short, and some longer than others, but nonetheless, there's always a story behind its name. The stories behind each place we explore, simple amazes us and add to our understanding of the way our ancestors lived in the past. These simple stories also hints to us the larger social and political context of Singapore during the Straits Settlement era.

So join us as we explore the many streets found in Chinatown and dig out long forgotten stories behind them.

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CHINATOWN HERITAGE CENTRE

We began our heritage trail at the Chinatown Heritage centre. It showed us the lives of the early migrants (sinkheh) as well as the challenges they faced on an arduous journey from various chinese provinces to the promised land of Singapore.

The center’s honest look at Chinatown’s history even shows the underbelly of the society such as the raw, seedy, underground practices of gambling dens and secret societies. Furthermore, the Chinatown Heritage Centre is the only place in Singapore to have recreated the original interiors of its shop-house tenants from the 1950s.

PAGODA STREET

Why was the street named Pagoda Street? 

Pagoda Street was named after the entrance tower of the Sri Mariamman Temple, the largest and oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, located on the South Bridge Road end of the street.

Take a good look at the shophouses. Can you see the impact of Raffles’ Town Plan of 1822?

The shophouses along Pagoda street are mainly involved in retail trade and services (well known for textile and tailor shops). The architecture of the shophouses on Pagoda Street and other parts of Chinatown originates from the Raffles Town Plan of 1882, as seen from the materials used to build the shophouses as well as the need to have covered walkways of five-foot width (hence known as "five-foot ways").

BUILDINGS ON 42 - 50 MOSQUE STREET; 175 - 189 NEW BRIDGE ROAD AND 38 - 64 UPPER CROSS STREET

A brief history of Mosque Street

Mosque Street is named after the Jamae Mosque located close to the street. This area is traditionally populated by Hakkas who traded in second – hand goods in particular paper and scrap metal. Nearby Cross Street was known as Kampung Susu (meaning Village of Milk in Malay). This is because of the booming goat milk business that was run by the Indians living there in the past. The Indians nicknamed the street, “Street of Milk Shops”. Today Mosque Street is popular for its Chinese restaurants.



As we continued with our trail, we reached the corner of Cross Street and New Bridge Road. We managed to spot the conspicuous row of the four – storey shophouses painted in pink and white. One can easily spot the distinctive feature of the building: the flat – headed windows.








In the 1930s, Singapore Improvement Trust (SIT) flats were constructed on Mosque Street and other parts of Singapore. They were Singapore’s first public housing. These blocks on Mosque Street were four storeys high, with six flats on each floor. Each floor shared one kitchen and two bathrooms. Residents who lived there were mainly Chinese and Malay civil servants. They held jobs either at the nearby Revenue Department or at Clifford Pier.

EU TONG SENG STREET & THE MAJESTIC

Who was Eu Tong Sen?

Eu Tong Sen was a wealthy chinese tycoon who was a miner, rubber estate and property owner. He was born in Penang, Malaya in 1877. He was also famously known for inheriting his family’s traditional chinese medicine business, Eu Yan Seng, which is still popular nowadays in Singapore. He also provided remittance services in his Eu Yan Seng shops in Gopeng and Kampar, where chinese miners and plantation workers get to send their money back home.

Why is the street named after him?

The street was named in honour of him due to his contributions to further the British efforts in World War 1. He contributed a scout fighter plane called No. 1 Eu Tong Seng, and 6000 pounds for a tank that had two ‘eyes’. The honour was given to him to recognise his efforts. The street was re-named after him in 1919, expunging the previous name ‘Wayang Street’. Upon receiving the honour, he also rebuilt the street and acquired two Chinese opera theatres there.

When were the two buildings at No. 70 and No.80 built? 

The building at No. 70 is the former Great Southern Hotel. It was built in 1936 as a boutique hotel with shops and entertainment outlets to serve the richer Chinese immigrants. 

The building at No. 80 is the Majestic Theatre. It was constructed by Eu Tong Sen in 1927 as an opera theatre known as Tien Yien Moi Toi for his wife who loves cantonese opera but was refused admittance to an opera performance elsewhere. It was converted to a cinema known as Queen’s Theatre which later became Majestic Theatre.

What was unique about these two buildings?

These two buildings were outstanding among the others in the Kreta Ayer Area. During those days when these two buildings were built, they are considered majestic and sophisticated compared to the surrounding shophouses which have only 2-3 stories and is highly compacted. The Great Southern Hotel was even considered the tallest building then, with a total floor count of 6.

"A COOLIE STATION", 37 PAGODA STREET

At 37 Pagoda Street, look out for a Chinatown information board. What can you find out about coolie stations on Pagoda Street in the past?

What’s the name of one of the biggest coolie station? What is the premises occupied by now?

The third stop on our heritage trail was Pagoda Street, known to some of the locals as ‘Kwong Hup Yuen Street’.




This is because it was famous for the 12 coolie stations operating here, with Kwong Hup Yuen the biggest of those stations! You may already know that coolies was the general term used to reference the unskilled or low skilled migrants from other parts of Asia, usually southern China, who worked for low or subsistence wages however it wasn’t always voluntary migration – many were sold to the highest bidder upon reaching Singapore! Located at No. 37, the Kwong Hup Yuen coolie station was licensed to hold up to 200 coolies but it is thought to have held many more than that, with conditions classed as sub-human, causing disease, violence and opium addiction to run riot. These terrible conditions reflected the value placed on coolies by society as the fit were bought and prized, while the weak, sick or ‘damaged’ coolies were left to survive on their own. It’s interesting to note that this coolie trade was managed by brokers, who were actually senior secret society members and knew that British officials were unlikely to prosecute them for their crimes. Coolie trade grew until the depression, Japanese occupation and world war two following which immigrants were considered to be more skilled labour.

Today, 37 Pagoda Street is a tailor’s shop, one among many on this bustling street. It is clear that while the heritage and history behind this area hasn’t been forgotten, shop owners have definitely moved on from the opium and coolie trade!

TRENGGANU STREET

HISTORY

Trengganu Street, in Chinatown, connects Sago Street and Pagoda Street. It is named after the state of Trengganu in Malaysia. The history behind this street dated back to the 19th century. This street was well known for the presence of Lai Chun Yuen opera house. However due to its declining popularity due to the demand in cinema halls and amusement parks, it was rented out to Shaw Brothers and was converted to a cinema, known as Sin Seng Theatre. The theatre did not survive through the Japanese Occupation. It was badly damaged by a bomb then. Renovations to its structure were made after the war however it was no longer used for entertainment purposes but as merchandise shops and warehouse for the hawkers.



Trengganu Street was also an infamous recreation outlet for the early Chinese immigrants. There were opium, gambling dens and brothels on the street to serve the Chinese coolies. There were also street hawkers found along the street. Hawkers serving exotic recipes were also what used to make Trengganu Street famous. Their specialty was brewed tonic soups made from a concoction of tortoise, turtle, snake, lizard, or snake meat served in thick ceramic urns.

NOW

Fast forward to today, Trengganu Street is now a pedestrian mall. We can no longer see the vibrancy of hawkers sitting along the streets but the heavily commericialised souvenir shops instead. However, Trengganu Street still houses a few performing arts groups.

One of which is Drama Box which is located at 14A-C Trengganu Street.

Drama Box is a non profit contemporary theatre company with a charity status. It was formed in the 1990s and had since gain a reputable name for presenting works that help to raise awareness and civic responsibility in Singaporeans.




Next we have the AS theatre located at 12A-C Trengganu Street. It is a non profit company as well. It was founded in 1993 by a group of talented artists.

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Another performing arts group found was xin sheng poets society. It is established in 2010. It was previously known as Hainan Guild Book Club. The activities carried on there are mostly related with books, literature, interest in Chinese culture. It also promotes reading culture of the people which further enhances their literary quality.

TEMPLE STREET

What was the former name of Temple Street (Hint: It’s a Portuguese connection)? Why?

The former name of Temple Street is Almeida Street and it was named after Joaqium d’Almeida. He was a Portuguese merchant who stopped at Singapore and purchased a large piece of land at the junction of Temple Street and Trengganu Street, and a portion of which was later named Almeida Street.



Why was it renamed as Temple Street? Any other names?

In 1908, the street was renamed as Temple Street, in honour of Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, which is located at the South Bridge Road end of the street.




The Chinese name for this street, hei yuen hau jie or "theatre back street", refers to the Lai Chun Yuen Chinese Theatre in Smith Street. It was a major landmark of Chinatown since 1880s until it was destroyed by a bomb during World War II.

What was traditionally found on this street?

Temple Street was home to many Teochew traders who sold Chinaware and household items. There were also itinerant tinsmiths and metalware workshops as well as blacksmiths making horseshoes.

FORMER LAI CHUN YUEN, 36 SMITH STREET

We had a hard time finding Lai Chu Yuen, 36 Smith Street because there were construction works along Smith Road! But we managed to find our way with the help of our IPads and Smartphones! Phew!

Smith Street was once known as Hei Yuen Kai, or Theatre Street, because of the renowned opera theatre Lai Chun Yuen in the late nineteenth – century. It was built in 1887 and housed in a three – storey building at 36 Smith Street. The reputation of Lai Chun Yuen was considerably successful that Temple Street, which is directly parallel to Smith Road, was known in Chinese as Street Behind the Theatre.

The theatre imitated the concept of a Chinese teahouse. It allowed patrons to sit around in small tables, nibbling on snacks and sipping tea whilst watching the performance put up by famous opera singers. The interior of the theatre “had high – ceilinged rooms with wooden balconies, decorated with painted ornaments and dimly – lit lanterns.” These rooms were frequented by wealthy patrons who enjoyed the personal services provided by the girls who worked at the brothels on Smith Street.